Day 8: Helsinki to Stockholm

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Both Ellen and I woke up normal time this day, just in time for fresh rolls to be placed out at the buffet. As usual, we stuffed ourselves before heading out to the bus. I was bold enough to try the oatmeal, which was actually very salty. Luckily, there was a giant bowl of raspberry preserves sitting out, so I mixed up a batch of 1:3 oatmeal jelly, and it was quite tasty.

For the first time, lunch packs were pre-made so we just grabbed a bag and headed to the bus. Our first stop was Otaneimi University for a small self-tour of the campus and a few buildings.

Then it was on to Hvittrask, the home and studio of three architects: Eliel Saarinen, Herman Gesellius and Armas Lindgren. Our tour guide was wonderful and explained a lot of the interesting aspects of the house. The house is made up of three floors, but seven levels, which meant a lot of stairs. Also, Eliel designed the house to his proportions, and was quite short, so many of us had to duck as we went through the doorways. We were also told a story about the "Whiskey Rings" located in the living room. Eliel, having a taste for Scottish Whiskey, installed these so that while you were drinking, if you needed some support, you could just hold on to one of the rings. But if you let go and fell, you would be finished for the night.



This is a stained glass window located in the dining room. It actually tells a story about Saarinen, Geseillus, and Mathilda, Saarinen's wife. Saarinen was a workaholic, and Mathilda a socialite. She began to feel bored and soon realized that Gesellius was a better match for her. At around the same time, Geseillus' sister began working as an assistant in Saarinen's studio, and they fell in love. So, what was left to do? Eliel and Mathilda divorced and they had a joint wedding, Eliel to Geseillus' sister and Mathilda to Geseillus. Talk about weird.



I saw this set of books in the library and couldn't resist taking a picture.





We walked the grounds after the tour and made it to the lake front, where we had our sack lunches, containing two triple decker sandwiches, yogurt, an apple, and chocolate. The sandwiches contained ham (we think), shredded cheese (gross!), and some odd salad dressing that was bright reddish orange. Luckily, though, Dan the tour man brought extra apples for everyone. I think I ended up eating three apples, the yogurt and the chocolate. Not the best lunch, but I wasn't daring enough to finish the sandwiches. I didn't want to be sick for the amazing buffet that lay ahead.

After lunch, it was on to the Paimio, the TB Sanatorium, designed by Alvar Aalto in 1929. Like many of the houses we had visited, we were asked to put on these little booties to keep from tracking dirt into the building.



We were taken throughout the building, all the way up to the roof, where patients were/are taken to get a breath of fresh air and take in the view:



I have a few more multi-shots that I need to turn into panoramas. Yay for Photoshop and its amazing photomerge tool.

After the tour, it was time to board our second overnight ferry. As soon as we got on, we threw our stuff in our rooms and jetted to the Viking buffet. And it was just as beautiful as the first. I had most of the same stuff, but learned from Flemming and Bjorli about the best way to eat caviar, involving wheat bread, hard-boiled eggs, and mayonnaise.

Since we had boarded late and eaten late, by the time we got out of the buffet, it was about 11pm. We were told that sunrise would be at 4:13am, so I decided I would try and pull an all-nighter. The night was full of lots of adventures––dancing in a two-level discotheque, taking a blueberry shot with a Finn, taking a few puffs from a Cuban cigar just to say I had, wandering the halls of the ferry, and watching the sunrise from the back deck of the boat.

And it was the most beautiful sunrise I had ever seen. But it's technically part of Day 9, so you'll have to wait for the photos. The many many many photos.